Nimaj

From Jodhpur we travel by bus 115 km to the east to the town of Nimaj.  We are staying at a property near Nimaj called Chhatra Sagar.  The history of this particular property began in the late 1800’s when a powerful noble decided to dam a seasonal stream flowing through his property to create a large reservoir which would harvest the monsoon rains.  In doing this he changed the dry scrub desert into prime agricultural land.  In the early 1900’s the west bank of the reservoir was a popular venue for entertaining guests.  A tent camp was created for each party.  In the 1970’s, a family cooperative was created to maintain the lands in the family.  Recently, a small resort has been created by the great-grandchildren of the estate.  Accomodation is in Shikar tents which face east overlooking the reservoir.  Each tent is handstitched with interiors block printed in traditional floral motifs.  The reservoir and surrounding grasslands and scrub forests provide habitat for many birds and wild animals. 

The interior of a Shikar tent

The walls and floors of the washrooms in each tent are faced with slabs of locally mined green schist

The support system for the tents

Roxanne sitting in front of tent overlooking the reservoir
 

Row of tents along the western shore of the reservoir

The first night we climb a nearby hill to watch the sunset.  The owners have four dogs, a Great Dane and three Jack Russell Terriers.  They accompany us on our hike up the hill.  It is very entertaining watching them all play together.  It appears that the Great Dane thinks he is a Jack Russell, but he also takes on the responsibility of looking after them.  We sip Gin & Tonic http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gin_and_tonic and watch the sun go down over the surrounding farmlands.  

A Jack Russell Terrier taking in the view of the reservoir from the path leading up to the viewpoint

Looking east over the reservoir

Clayton, Harry and Al sipping on Gin & Tonic

Sun setting over the surrounding farmlands

Roxanne with the Great Dane

After “cocktail hour” we descend down the hill to the tents along the shoreline.  We sit around a fire pit and watch the bats and the stars appear as darkness falls.  Supper is served in an open walled tent.  The food is delicious.  As we enjoy the meal, a flock of Bar-Headed Geese fly overhead in the dark, announcing their arrival to the reservoir with their soft honking.  Magical! 

The bar made from a wonderful old tree limb

The seating around the fire pit which is just about to be lit as darkness falls

The open walled tent in the background where meals are served

The next morning, Raj (one of the four great-grandsons) takes us on a tour of one the farms.  We walk through the fields and view many different crops:  anise, canola, cumin, fenugreek, peppers, eggplants, barley and wheat.  We arrive at the farmhouse and meet some of the members of the family.  These farmers are descendents of the people who settled here in the late 1890’s.  As we walk through the farm yards; the wary buffalo stand guard. 

Raj

Cumin

Slate slab fence along the edge of barley crop.  Uneven heights of the slate slabs make it difficult for the ungulates to judge the height and to jump the fences

Chili peppers drying in the sun

Tall fronds of anise

Farmer

A farmer's well worn shoes

Coriander drying in the sun

Buffalo are very wary animals; can easily become defensive

Shepherds

Next we visit the nearby village.  Women from the village are at the central well collecting water and washing clothes. 

We visit the local primary school.   One of the classes is out in the central courtyard.  The other classes are in classrooms surrounding the courtyard.  A group of ladies from the village is preparing lunch for the children in the corner of the school yard.  In the headmasters’ office, there is a poster that teaches the children about new government standards for girls.   This is what I understood the poster to say:

·         All children have a right to education

·         Girls cannot marry before 18; boys cannot marry before 21

·         Women should give birth in a hospital

·         A small family is a happy family

·         Responsibility in caring for family

Unfortunately, it appears that these standards are slow to be adopted in much of India.

Class being conducted in the school courtyard

Women cooking lunch for the students

Our guide Sandhya having a pensive moment

The Headmasters Office. Interesting juxtaposition of the images of Nehru and Shiva.

Poster showing government standards for girls

After our visit to the school, we visit other people of the community: shepherds, spinners and potters.  It is a self-contained communal lifestyle that has existed for over a century.  Every family has an occupation that is handed down from generation to generation which, in turn, supports the community as a whole.  Tourists are not allowed to buy anything in the village.  This is done to preserve the balance of the community.  It appears that the people are doing well under the cooperative and that the current generation continues to do the same work as generations before them.  Here, and all throughout India, better access to education for next generation will undoubtedly change the existing way of life.

Spinning wool

Potter setting up to throw vessels for carrying water

The potters wife demonstrates the decoration of the water vessels and then shows how they carry the pot on their head

The potters wife showing off her grandson

This man had been a barber and was showing us how he sharpened his tools on a stone.  From the look of his glasses he was now very elderly and almost blind

Late in the afternoon we go for a walk in the grasslands around the reservoir.  There are many birds and herds of Blue Bulls.  The reservoir is crowded with a multitude of bird species – geese egrets, spoonbills, storks, kingfishers and herons.   It is a wonderful, peaceful place.

A view of the dam with the tents sitting on top of the wall

Harry standing beside some very tall grasses.  The three Jack Russell Terriers ripping along at top speed.

A Blue Bull in the grasslands.